Hello all,
Life in Changchun has become one big routine: wake up, eat, teach, practice Chinese, type a few words, eat more, play chess, play some football, read a little, eat again and sleep. A daily routine is nice and boring, predictable and definitely nothing to write home about. Nothing worse than a a boring story. So I haven't updated this site in a while. In fact, with my tenure as an English Professor at Changchun University of Technology about to expire, I thought I had completed my Changchun chapter and wouldn't have any more stories for you until July and the start of my South-East Asia excursion. But last Thursday, something happened that was too good not to share, a something you remember for the rest of your life, a something to tell the grandkids.
I have been playing quite a bit of pick-up football at University. There is usually a good crew of footballers out there every day after school and the guys get a kick out of playing with a white guy. I practice my Chinese and they practice their English - it's a win-win. Earlier in the year, when the snow was melting, some of the regulars mentioned a summer team and asked if I would like to join. I told I'd be travelling and couldn't commit, but if they needed a player and I was around, I'd play. I didn't think much of it and they didn't say anything either, so I went back to my routine. A week ago, they said they had their first game coming up and needed an extra player. They asked me if I wanted to play and I said, sure why not. They told me I wouldn't need shin-pads and that there would be no refs, so I figured it wasn't very serious.
The day of the match arrived and I had one class to teach at 10:30. I walked by the football pitch on my way to class and I noticed a bunch of people setting up a sound system and others practicing some dance.
I walked into class around 10:25 and there was no one there. Most students arrive to class early, so I was a little confused, but I waited. 10:30 - nobody, 10:35 - nothing, 10:40 - still nobody. Out in the hallway, I noticed there were no other teachers teaching or students learning either. The whole building was empty. I guess I enjoyed the quiet too much to notice as I came in. I called my adviser and she said today and Friday were school sport days and that classes were cancelled. 'Word,' I thought, threw my headphones in my ears and listened to Iggy Pop - Dum Dum Boys. Felt real cool walking back home.
The match was at 1:30. I decided to show up at quarter after. This time as I was walking toward the field, I noticed the lack of people out and about on campus. 1:15 was lunchtime, normally there were students running around doing odd things. But I had my headphones in again, thinking about the match and listening to Kanye West - Devil In a New Dress. Motivating and calming at the same time; perfect track before a football match.
I rounded the corner and stopped dead. The pitch was packed. Must have been a thousand people. I checked my watch. Did I have the right time? The right place? They said here at 1:30. I got a little closer to learn more.
Sure enough, there they were. The familiar faces of pick-up football handing each other new jerseys out of a cardboard box. Were we playing in front of all these people? I considered going home, but I promised them I'd play, so I had to suck it up. I took a breath and walked through the gate.
In the middle of the field, entertaining the crowd, were a group of cheerleaders. This was serious, I thought, as I pulled out my headphones and headed over to my team. It was then the crowd noticed me. It happened all at once, like somebody ripping a loud fart in class. There was silence, then laughter and conversation. I can't speak the language, but I could tell they were talking about me, I was the farter.
I made it over to the team, feeling embarrassed. They were all happy to see me and excited to play. I started getting changed and put my cleats on when I heard somebody calling my name. I looked up and there was my adviser and boss in the crowd, waving. Jesus, I thought, what have I got myself into? One of the guys with better English came over and told me they had a jersey for me. I noticed the new jerseys were Real Madrid whites and that they had their names on the back. One of the guys pulled out a jersey and threw it to me. They were all laughing, waiting for me to check it out. I turned it over and there was number 11, and Bale in black writing. For you non-soccer fans, Gareth Bale is a popular player from Wales who plays in Spain and he's one of the best in the world. I laughed and told them thanks, thinking to myself 'Gareth Bale - no pressure.'
We were ready and started kicking the ball around. I took a tough pass and back-heeled it to a teammate. I heard the crowd awe and it felt awesome. This might end up being alright. On the other side of the pitch was the other team. They were wearing matching warm-up suits and doing an elaborate warm-up drill. They meant business...even had a coach. I asked one of the guys if he knew who we were playing. He laughed and didn't understand, so I had to ask somebody else. Another guy said he knew and told me it was the school team.
"The varsity team?"
"What is warsity?" He asked.
"The school's team" I said, "the best players from here."
"Ahh, yes! Warsity." He replied.
What the crap, I thought. Why were we, a rag-tag group of Sunday afternoon, pick-up players, playing the varsity team in front of a 1000 people? We were going to get killed.
There were no refs, and there was no starting whistle. The varsity team huddled up and said a cheer and someone from my team had drawn up a starting XI and showed it to me - bunch of Chinese characters and Ben - right in the middle, center midfield, their star player, the white guy, Gareth Bale. No pressure.
No time to think. Kick-off went to them, the crowd cheered and I tried to park the bus, Chelsea-style, but it was difficult to co-ordinate a plan with players I've only played pick-up soccer with, not to mention only half of them speak any English. But things went well. You could tell they had played together before, they passed and moved well, and we had difficulty holding possession. My teammates didn't have the best structure or 11-a-side-sense and I had to do most of the play making. The varsity boys caught on quick and I had a shadow following me around for most of the game. After that, I had to run hard to get open, but we held on and after half-time the score was 0-0.
I was breathing heavy at half, I was running hard. But I had some water and enjoyed the half-time show - some more cheerleaders dancing to a crappy, old, English number.
It was over too soon and we were back at it. I noticed my shadow had been subbed for a pair of fresh legs; I was in trouble. Unfortunately, so was my team. They had a streaky right back who was killing our left midfielder and leaving our left back stuck in bad situations. They worked a cross in and their striker won it, our goalie brushing it with his fingertips as it sailed into the corner. 1-0 Varsity.
Our captain decided on a line change and I lost a midfielder to a striker role; we were going for it. Unfortunately, this left us open in the middle of the pitch and it was going to hurt us. I would have said something, if I could have said it in Chinese. They won the ball back quick and were all over us. They had a shot sail just wide and our goalie worked the ball up the right side. The extra striker came over to help and I peeled in behind the midfielder for support. He ran into trouble and doubled back, passing the ball to me. I felt my shadow getting close, so I faked a step toward the ball and let it run back the other way. My shadow bought it and I cut toward the middle of the pitch. I looked up and saw one of my guys making a run. I put my head down and lobbed one up there for him. It was a beauty - right over the defenders head and in the path of his run, Steven Gerrard would have smiled. His first touch was good enough and he had a shot on net. We held our breath, the crowd went quiet and the ball sailed high. We groaned and knew that our chance had gone by.
Then they were back in our end and we were working hard. One of their players gave a poor pass and there was a 50/50 between one of their midfielders and I. Normally in these situations, I let up a bit and go for the ball only, avoiding a collision with my smaller hosts. But that was pick-up football and this was a game with varsity players and 1000 people watching. I went in strong. So did the other player. I got there first and I felt him run into my right shoulder. Then I heard the thud as he landed on his back on the turf. The crowd gasped, I could hear cries of murder - "yellow card!", "Red card!", "Fire The Teacher!", "SEND HIM BACK TO CANADA!" - it was a clean play, I thought, but that didn't help. The game stopped. I went up to him and said sorry in Chinese. He replied no problem, he was a good sport, but he subbed off and didn't play again. They got the ball back, I would have argued if we were in Canada, but I didn't want to upset the crowd, and we were back in the frying pan. I noticed my shadow a few paces back after that play.
We held on until late, we (myself included) were getting tired. They got another one off a corner kick. Lucky play, but they all count. 2-0 Varsity. We had another chance after that from a free kick, but I gave it to one of my teammates and they sailed it high again. The game ended (I didn't know who was keeping trac and it was all over. I fell to the ground on the sideline; I never worked so hard in any game.
Our team was enjoying the moment, we played well, had some chances and kept them to 2-0. Not bad for a rag-tag group of misfits. As we chatted about the game, my adviser and boss came by and said good game; I still had my job. Groups of shy girls would stop and say good game. I'd smile, say thanks, and they'd run away giggling. Typical China, but not a typical day.
Life in Changchun has become one big routine: wake up, eat, teach, practice Chinese, type a few words, eat more, play chess, play some football, read a little, eat again and sleep. A daily routine is nice and boring, predictable and definitely nothing to write home about. Nothing worse than a a boring story. So I haven't updated this site in a while. In fact, with my tenure as an English Professor at Changchun University of Technology about to expire, I thought I had completed my Changchun chapter and wouldn't have any more stories for you until July and the start of my South-East Asia excursion. But last Thursday, something happened that was too good not to share, a something you remember for the rest of your life, a something to tell the grandkids.
I have been playing quite a bit of pick-up football at University. There is usually a good crew of footballers out there every day after school and the guys get a kick out of playing with a white guy. I practice my Chinese and they practice their English - it's a win-win. Earlier in the year, when the snow was melting, some of the regulars mentioned a summer team and asked if I would like to join. I told I'd be travelling and couldn't commit, but if they needed a player and I was around, I'd play. I didn't think much of it and they didn't say anything either, so I went back to my routine. A week ago, they said they had their first game coming up and needed an extra player. They asked me if I wanted to play and I said, sure why not. They told me I wouldn't need shin-pads and that there would be no refs, so I figured it wasn't very serious.
The day of the match arrived and I had one class to teach at 10:30. I walked by the football pitch on my way to class and I noticed a bunch of people setting up a sound system and others practicing some dance.
I walked into class around 10:25 and there was no one there. Most students arrive to class early, so I was a little confused, but I waited. 10:30 - nobody, 10:35 - nothing, 10:40 - still nobody. Out in the hallway, I noticed there were no other teachers teaching or students learning either. The whole building was empty. I guess I enjoyed the quiet too much to notice as I came in. I called my adviser and she said today and Friday were school sport days and that classes were cancelled. 'Word,' I thought, threw my headphones in my ears and listened to Iggy Pop - Dum Dum Boys. Felt real cool walking back home.
The match was at 1:30. I decided to show up at quarter after. This time as I was walking toward the field, I noticed the lack of people out and about on campus. 1:15 was lunchtime, normally there were students running around doing odd things. But I had my headphones in again, thinking about the match and listening to Kanye West - Devil In a New Dress. Motivating and calming at the same time; perfect track before a football match.
I rounded the corner and stopped dead. The pitch was packed. Must have been a thousand people. I checked my watch. Did I have the right time? The right place? They said here at 1:30. I got a little closer to learn more.
Sure enough, there they were. The familiar faces of pick-up football handing each other new jerseys out of a cardboard box. Were we playing in front of all these people? I considered going home, but I promised them I'd play, so I had to suck it up. I took a breath and walked through the gate.
In the middle of the field, entertaining the crowd, were a group of cheerleaders. This was serious, I thought, as I pulled out my headphones and headed over to my team. It was then the crowd noticed me. It happened all at once, like somebody ripping a loud fart in class. There was silence, then laughter and conversation. I can't speak the language, but I could tell they were talking about me, I was the farter.
I made it over to the team, feeling embarrassed. They were all happy to see me and excited to play. I started getting changed and put my cleats on when I heard somebody calling my name. I looked up and there was my adviser and boss in the crowd, waving. Jesus, I thought, what have I got myself into? One of the guys with better English came over and told me they had a jersey for me. I noticed the new jerseys were Real Madrid whites and that they had their names on the back. One of the guys pulled out a jersey and threw it to me. They were all laughing, waiting for me to check it out. I turned it over and there was number 11, and Bale in black writing. For you non-soccer fans, Gareth Bale is a popular player from Wales who plays in Spain and he's one of the best in the world. I laughed and told them thanks, thinking to myself 'Gareth Bale - no pressure.'
We were ready and started kicking the ball around. I took a tough pass and back-heeled it to a teammate. I heard the crowd awe and it felt awesome. This might end up being alright. On the other side of the pitch was the other team. They were wearing matching warm-up suits and doing an elaborate warm-up drill. They meant business...even had a coach. I asked one of the guys if he knew who we were playing. He laughed and didn't understand, so I had to ask somebody else. Another guy said he knew and told me it was the school team.
"The varsity team?"
"What is warsity?" He asked.
"The school's team" I said, "the best players from here."
"Ahh, yes! Warsity." He replied.
What the crap, I thought. Why were we, a rag-tag group of Sunday afternoon, pick-up players, playing the varsity team in front of a 1000 people? We were going to get killed.
There were no refs, and there was no starting whistle. The varsity team huddled up and said a cheer and someone from my team had drawn up a starting XI and showed it to me - bunch of Chinese characters and Ben - right in the middle, center midfield, their star player, the white guy, Gareth Bale. No pressure.
No time to think. Kick-off went to them, the crowd cheered and I tried to park the bus, Chelsea-style, but it was difficult to co-ordinate a plan with players I've only played pick-up soccer with, not to mention only half of them speak any English. But things went well. You could tell they had played together before, they passed and moved well, and we had difficulty holding possession. My teammates didn't have the best structure or 11-a-side-sense and I had to do most of the play making. The varsity boys caught on quick and I had a shadow following me around for most of the game. After that, I had to run hard to get open, but we held on and after half-time the score was 0-0.
I was breathing heavy at half, I was running hard. But I had some water and enjoyed the half-time show - some more cheerleaders dancing to a crappy, old, English number.
It was over too soon and we were back at it. I noticed my shadow had been subbed for a pair of fresh legs; I was in trouble. Unfortunately, so was my team. They had a streaky right back who was killing our left midfielder and leaving our left back stuck in bad situations. They worked a cross in and their striker won it, our goalie brushing it with his fingertips as it sailed into the corner. 1-0 Varsity.
Our captain decided on a line change and I lost a midfielder to a striker role; we were going for it. Unfortunately, this left us open in the middle of the pitch and it was going to hurt us. I would have said something, if I could have said it in Chinese. They won the ball back quick and were all over us. They had a shot sail just wide and our goalie worked the ball up the right side. The extra striker came over to help and I peeled in behind the midfielder for support. He ran into trouble and doubled back, passing the ball to me. I felt my shadow getting close, so I faked a step toward the ball and let it run back the other way. My shadow bought it and I cut toward the middle of the pitch. I looked up and saw one of my guys making a run. I put my head down and lobbed one up there for him. It was a beauty - right over the defenders head and in the path of his run, Steven Gerrard would have smiled. His first touch was good enough and he had a shot on net. We held our breath, the crowd went quiet and the ball sailed high. We groaned and knew that our chance had gone by.
Then they were back in our end and we were working hard. One of their players gave a poor pass and there was a 50/50 between one of their midfielders and I. Normally in these situations, I let up a bit and go for the ball only, avoiding a collision with my smaller hosts. But that was pick-up football and this was a game with varsity players and 1000 people watching. I went in strong. So did the other player. I got there first and I felt him run into my right shoulder. Then I heard the thud as he landed on his back on the turf. The crowd gasped, I could hear cries of murder - "yellow card!", "Red card!", "Fire The Teacher!", "SEND HIM BACK TO CANADA!" - it was a clean play, I thought, but that didn't help. The game stopped. I went up to him and said sorry in Chinese. He replied no problem, he was a good sport, but he subbed off and didn't play again. They got the ball back, I would have argued if we were in Canada, but I didn't want to upset the crowd, and we were back in the frying pan. I noticed my shadow a few paces back after that play.
We held on until late, we (myself included) were getting tired. They got another one off a corner kick. Lucky play, but they all count. 2-0 Varsity. We had another chance after that from a free kick, but I gave it to one of my teammates and they sailed it high again. The game ended (I didn't know who was keeping trac and it was all over. I fell to the ground on the sideline; I never worked so hard in any game.
Our team was enjoying the moment, we played well, had some chances and kept them to 2-0. Not bad for a rag-tag group of misfits. As we chatted about the game, my adviser and boss came by and said good game; I still had my job. Groups of shy girls would stop and say good game. I'd smile, say thanks, and they'd run away giggling. Typical China, but not a typical day.